Royal Palace Phnom Penh: Cambodia's Glittering Seat of Power

On the western bank of the Tonle Sap River, behind walls of yellow ochre topped with Khmer spires, sits the most important complex of buildings in Cambodia. The Royal Palace in Phnom Penh is not a museum or a relic. It is a working palace where the King of Cambodia still resides, and it has served as the seat of the Cambodian monarchy since the 1860s. For visitors, it offers a concentrated introduction to Khmer royal architecture, Buddhist art, and the living traditions of a monarchy that survived colonialism, revolution, and genocide.

The palace shares its grounds with the Silver Pagoda, a temple whose floor is paved with over 5,000 silver tiles and whose interior houses some of the most precious Buddhist artifacts in Southeast Asia. Together, the palace and pagoda form the single most important cultural site in Phnom Penh and a visit that no traveler to the capital should skip.

History of the Royal Palace

Phnom Penh became Cambodia's capital in 1866, when King Norodom moved the court from the hilltop city of Oudong. The French, who had established a protectorate over Cambodia in 1863, encouraged the relocation as it placed the monarchy closer to their administrative apparatus. Norodom initially lived in a temporary wooden palace while construction of the permanent compound began.

The Throne Hall, the centerpiece of the complex, was built in its current form between 1913 and 1919, replacing an earlier wooden structure. Its design draws on traditional Khmer architecture with French colonial engineering techniques, a blend that characterizes much of the compound. The distinctive multi-tiered roofs with their pointed prang spires became the template for official Cambodian architecture and remain the most recognizable silhouette on Phnom Penh's riverfront skyline.

The palace survived the Khmer Rouge period (1975-1979) largely intact, though it was emptied and closed during those years when Phnom Penh itself was forcibly evacuated. After the fall of the regime, the complex was gradually restored and reopened. King Norodom Sihamoni, who ascended the throne in 2004, continues to reside in the private sections of the compound.

What to See

The Throne Hall (Preah Thineang Dheva Vinnichay)

The Throne Hall is the most imposing structure in the compound, a tiered building crowned by a 59-meter central tower topped with a four-faced head of Brahma. The hall is used for coronations, royal ceremonies, and diplomatic receptions. Visitors can view the exterior and the surrounding grounds but cannot enter the hall itself during most visits. Occasionally, on special occasions, limited access is granted.

The hall's exterior features intricate gilded decorations, naga balustrades, and carved window frames. The proportions are deliberately grand, designed to convey the authority and divine connection of the Cambodian monarchy.

The Silver Pagoda (Wat Preah Keo Morakot)

The Silver Pagoda is the highlight for most visitors. Officially named the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, it sits within the palace compound and serves as the royal temple where the king worships and where Buddhist ceremonies are performed for the royal family.

The pagoda gets its popular name from its floor: 5,329 silver tiles, each weighing roughly one kilogram, covering the entire interior. Visitors can see the tiles near the entrance where a section is uncovered for display, though most of the floor is now carpeted for preservation.

Inside, the pagoda houses two extraordinary Buddha images:

• The Emerald Buddha: A small but revered 17th-century figure made of Baccarat crystal (not actual emerald), seated on a gilded pedestal. This is the temple's namesake and one of Cambodia's most sacred objects.
• The Gold Buddha (Preah Keo Morakot): A life-sized standing Buddha made of 90 kilograms of gold and encrusted with 9,584 diamonds, the largest weighing 25 carats. Created in 1906, it is one of the most valuable Buddhist statues in existence.

The pagoda also contains gifts from foreign heads of state, ornate silver and gold furniture, and a collection of Buddha statues in various styles spanning centuries of Cambodian art.

Important: Photography is not permitted inside the Silver Pagoda.

The Gallery Murals

Surrounding the Silver Pagoda compound is an enclosed gallery with murals depicting the Reamker, the Cambodian version of the Hindu epic Ramayana. Painted in 1903-1904, the murals stretch for hundreds of meters along the gallery walls, telling the story of Prince Rama's battle against the demon king Ravana. While many sections have deteriorated from weather and time, the surviving portions are vivid and detailed, offering insight into classical Khmer artistic traditions. Restoration work is ongoing.

Other Structures

• Chan Chhaya Pavilion: The "Moonlight Pavilion" is an open-air performance stage on the palace's eastern facade, visible from the riverside promenade. Classical Khmer dance performances were traditionally held here, and it remains a symbol of Cambodian cultural identity.
• Phochani Pavilion: A wooden pavilion used for royal banquets and receptions, featuring ornate carvings and gilt decorations.
• Royal stupas and gardens: Several small stupas (chedei) dot the compound, containing remains of past royals. The manicured gardens include frangipani trees, ornamental plants, and shaded walkways.
• Model of Angkor Wat: A small-scale replica of Angkor Wat sits in the Silver Pagoda compound, built by King Norodom in the late 19th century as a reminder of the empire's greatest architectural achievement.

Visiting the Royal Palace

Tickets and Hours

The palace closes between 11:00 and 14:00. Plan your visit for either the morning or afternoon session. Arrive early in either session for cooler temperatures and thinner crowds. The palace occasionally closes without advance notice for state functions, so it is worth checking with your hotel before heading over.

Dress Code

The dress code is strictly enforced. You must cover your shoulders with an actual shirt or blouse - scarves and shawls draped over shoulders are not accepted. Shorts, skirts, and dresses must reach below the knee. Hats must be removed inside buildings. Only small bags are permitted. If you arrive improperly dressed, there are vendors outside selling inexpensive cover-ups, but buying a suitable shirt in advance saves time and hassle.

Getting There

The Royal Palace sits on Samdach Sothearos Boulevard along the Tonle Sap riverfront, in the heart of Phnom Penh. It is walkable from most central hotels and guesthouses. A tuk-tuk from anywhere in central Phnom Penh costs $1-3. The main visitor entrance is on Samdach Sothearos Boulevard (southern gate).

How Long to Spend

Allow 1.5 to 2 hours for a thorough visit covering both the palace grounds and the Silver Pagoda compound. A guide adds context that makes the visit significantly more meaningful, especially for understanding the murals and the significance of the various Buddha images.

Combining with Nearby Attractions

The Royal Palace sits in Phnom Penh's most historically dense neighborhood. Several major attractions are within walking distance:

• National Museum of Cambodia: Directly north of the palace, this terracotta-red building houses the country's finest collection of Khmer sculpture and artifacts, spanning from the pre-Angkorian period through the present. Admission is $10. Allow one to two hours.
• Wat Ounalom: The most important Buddhist temple in Phnom Penh, located a short walk north along the riverfront. It serves as the headquarters of Cambodian Buddhism and contains a hair relic of the Buddha.
• Sisowath Quay (Riverside): The promenade along the Tonle Sap River stretches north from the palace and is lined with restaurants, cafes, and street food vendors. It comes alive in the evening and is the best spot in Phnom Penh for a sunset walk.
• Phnom Penh Night Market: Operating on weekends near the riverfront, this market offers local food, clothing, and souvenirs in a lively atmosphere.

A full day combining the Royal Palace, National Museum, and a riverside walk covers the cultural highlights of central Phnom Penh. For more on exploring Cambodia's capital and planning your route through the country, GoAsia.cc has detailed guides.

Tips for Visiting the Royal Palace

• Bring cash in USD. The entrance fee is payable in US dollars (cash only). Cambodian riel is also accepted but USD is standard. Credit cards are not accepted at the ticket counter.
• Visit in the morning session. The grounds are more pleasant before the midday heat, and the morning light on the golden spires is beautiful for photography. The afternoon session gets warm quickly.
• Hire a guide. The guides waiting inside the entrance gate are often well-informed university graduates who speak excellent English. At $10 per hour, the investment transforms the visit from a photo opportunity into an educational experience. They can explain the murals, identify the various stupas and buildings, and provide political and historical context.
• Do not photograph inside the Silver Pagoda. This rule is strictly enforced. Photography is permitted throughout the rest of the grounds, including the exterior of the pagoda and all gardens and walkways.
• Remove shoes before entering any building. Carry slip-on footwear for easy on-off at each building entrance.
• Bring water. The grounds offer limited shade and Phnom Penh's heat is intense. There are small drink vendors near the entrance but nothing inside the compound itself.
• Check for closures. The palace closes for royal events without public notice. A quick check with your hotel or a search online the morning of your visit can save a wasted trip.