El Nido Palawan: Island Hopping, Lagoons, and Paradise Found
Limestone cliffs rising sheer from turquoise water. Hidden lagoons accessible only by kayak through narrow rock passages. Secret beaches tucked behind towering karst walls that open up to white sand and crystal-clear shallows. El Nido, perched at the northern tip of Palawan in the Philippines, consistently ranks among the most beautiful places on Earth, and for once the hype is justified.
The town of El Nido itself is a compact, slightly chaotic beachfront strip of restaurants, dive shops, and tour operators. The magic lies offshore, in the Bacuit Archipelago - a scattered chain of 45 islands and islets that form one of the most visually stunning seascapes in Southeast Asia. Four organized island-hopping tours (labeled A through D) provide structured access to the lagoons, beaches, caves, and snorkeling spots, but the real joy is simply being on the water, watching the limestone formations change shape as your boat winds between them.
Getting to El Nido
By Air
AirSWIFT operates direct flights to El Nido's Lio Airport from Manila (1 hour 20 minutes). One-way fares start around PHP 7,500 ($130) but fluctuate with demand and season. This is the fastest option but also the most expensive. Flights also connect El Nido with Coron and Cebu seasonally. Book well in advance - seats sell out during peak season.
Via Puerto Princesa
The budget-friendly route is to fly from Manila to Puerto Princesa (1 hour, from PHP 2,000-4,000 with budget airlines like Cebu Pacific or AirAsia), then take an overland van or bus to El Nido.
| Transport | Duration | Cost |
|---|---|---|
| Shared van | 5-6 hours | PHP 500-700 |
| Bus (Cherry/Roro) | 6-7 hours | PHP 400-500 |
| Private van | 5 hours | PHP 5,000-7,000 whole van |
The road from Puerto Princesa to El Nido is fully paved and passes through small towns and palm-lined stretches. It is long but scenic. Shared vans are the most popular option - they leave throughout the day from the San Jose terminal near Puerto Princesa airport.
By Ferry from Coron
Several ferry operators connect Coron to El Nido daily, with travel times of 4-5 hours depending on sea conditions. Fares range from PHP 1,600-2,200. This route is popular for travelers combining both Palawan destinations. Seas can be rough during the southwest monsoon (June-October).
Things to Do
The Island Hopping Tours
El Nido's famous island-hopping tours are the main attraction. Four standardized tours (A, B, C, D) each visit a different set of islands and lagoons in Bacuit Bay. Tours run full-day (7-8 hours), include lunch, snorkeling gear, and a licensed guide.
Tour A - The Must-Do
The most popular tour and the one to prioritize if you only have time for one. Stops include:
- Big Lagoon: A wide lagoon enclosed by towering limestone walls, best explored by kayak (PHP 200 rental). The water shifts from deep emerald to shallow turquoise as you paddle deeper inside.
- Small Lagoon: Accessed through a narrow gap in the rock, this enclosed lagoon is intimate and stunning. Kayak required to enter (PHP 200). Can get crowded at midday.
- Secret Lagoon: Reached by swimming through a small hole in a rock wall, opening into a hidden pool surrounded by cliffs. The sense of discovery is real.
- Shimizu Island: Good snorkeling over coral gardens with reef fish and occasional sea turtles.
- Seven Commandos Beach: A long white sand beach perfect for swimming and relaxing. Usually the lunch stop.
Tour A costs PHP 1,200-1,500 per person plus PHP 200 environmental fee (valid for 10 days). Kayak rentals and lagoon entrance fees are extra.
Tour C - The Scenic Runner-Up
If you do two tours, make Tour C your second choice. Highlights include:
- Secret Beach: Swim through a narrow hole in a cliff wall to find a hidden beach completely enclosed by rock. One of the most photogenic spots in El Nido.
- Hidden Beach: Another secluded stretch accessible by swimming through a gap. Excellent snorkeling on the approach.
- Matinloc Shrine: An abandoned shrine on a clifftop island with striking views and good snorkeling around the rocks below.
- Helicopter Island: Named for its shape when viewed from a distance. Good swimming beach and snorkeling.
Tour C costs PHP 1,400-1,600 per person.
Tour B
Focuses on caves and snorkeling. Highlights include Snake Island (a sandbar connecting two islands, walkable at low tide), Cudugnon Cave (an archaeological site with prehistoric artifacts), and Cathedral Cave. Tour B costs PHP 1,300-1,500.
Tour D
The quietest and most relaxed option, visiting Cadlao Island's lagoon, Pasandigan Beach, and smaller, less-visited spots. Good for travelers who have done the other tours and want a mellower day. Tour D costs PHP 1,200-1,400.
Beyond Island Hopping
- Nacpan Beach: A 4-kilometer stretch of golden sand about 45 minutes north of El Nido town by tricycle (PHP 500-700 return). Far less crowded than the town beach, with a handful of simple beach bars and excellent swimming. One of the best beaches in all of Palawan.
- Las Cabanas Beach: A sunset spot about 10 minutes south of town, with a zipline over the water (PHP 500) and beachfront bars. The evening atmosphere here is lively and the sunsets are reliably spectacular.
- Diving: El Nido has excellent diving, though the sites are less famous than those around Coron. Reef dives feature healthy coral, turtles, and abundant fish. Open Water certification costs around PHP 15,000-18,000. Fun dives run PHP 1,500-2,500.
- Kayaking: Rent a kayak (PHP 500-800 per day) from the town beach and explore the shoreline, rock formations, and nearby islands at your own pace. Early morning before the tour boats head out offers the calmest water.
Where to Stay
El Nido accommodation ranges from basic fan rooms to luxury island resorts.
| Category | Price Range (per night) | What to Expect |
|---|---|---|
| Budget | PHP 500-1,500 | Fan rooms, basic amenities, town center |
| Mid-range | PHP 2,000-5,000 | AC, hot water, some with pool or beach access |
| Upscale | PHP 5,000-15,000 | Beachfront boutique hotels, Corong-Corong area |
| Luxury | PHP 20,000+ | Island resorts (Pangulasian, Miniloc, Lagen) |
The town center (Barangay Buena Suerte) is walking distance to tour operators and restaurants but can be noisy. Corong-Corong, about 15 minutes south by tricycle, is quieter with better beach access. Nacpan Beach has a few beachfront guesthouses for those wanting real seclusion.
Food and Drink
El Nido's restaurant scene has grown significantly. Filipino food is the foundation - try kare-kare (oxtail in peanut sauce), sinigang (sour tamarind soup), and fresh seafood grilled on the beach. International options include Italian, Mexican, and health-food cafes catering to the tourist crowd.
A local meal at a carinderia (Filipino eatery) costs PHP 100-200. Mid-range restaurants charge PHP 300-600 for mains. Fresh seafood set meals at beachfront restaurants run PHP 500-1,000. San Miguel beer is about PHP 60-80 at most bars.
Tips for Visiting El Nido
- Book Tour A first: It is the most spectacular and often sells out during peak season. Book the day before through your hotel or a tour operator in town.
- Bring cash: ATMs in El Nido are unreliable and frequently empty. Bring enough pesos from Manila or Puerto Princesa to cover your entire stay. Some hotels and restaurants accept cards, but cash is essential for tours, tricycles, and small businesses.
- Rent a kayak in the lagoons: The Big Lagoon and Small Lagoon on Tour A are best experienced from a kayak rather than a group boat. The PHP 200 rental fee is well worth it for the freedom to explore at your own pace.
- Go to Nacpan Beach: After the organized tours, a day at Nacpan Beach is the perfect contrast - wide open sand, gentle waves, and no limestone walls boxing you in.
- Pack reef-safe sunscreen: El Nido's marine environment is its greatest asset. Chemical sunscreens damage coral. Use mineral (zinc oxide) sunscreen to protect both yourself and the reef.
- Expect variable power and internet: El Nido's infrastructure is improving but brownouts still happen, especially during peak demand. WiFi is available but often slow. Embrace the disconnect.
- Best season: December to May for dry weather and calm seas. January and February offer the best conditions with smaller crowds than the Easter and Christmas peaks. June to October brings the southwest monsoon with rain and rougher seas that can cancel tours.
For more Philippines island guides and travel tips, explore other articles on GoAsia.cc.
Frequently Asked Questions
Tour A is the must-do, featuring the Big Lagoon, Small Lagoon, Secret Lagoon, and Seven Commandos Beach. If you have time for a second tour, Tour C is the runner-up with Secret Beach, Hidden Beach, and Matinloc Shrine. Both offer stunning lagoons and swimming. Tour B focuses on caves and snorkeling, while Tour D is the most relaxed and least visited.
A comfortable 4-day trip costs roughly PHP 10,000-15,000 ($180-270) per person excluding flights. This covers budget-to-mid-range accommodation (PHP 1,000-3,000/night), two island hopping tours (PHP 1,200-1,600 each plus fees), meals, and local transport. Flights from Manila add PHP 2,000-7,500 depending on the route. Bring extra cash as ATMs are unreliable.
The fastest option is a direct AirSWIFT flight (1 hour 20 minutes, from PHP 7,500). The budget route is flying to Puerto Princesa (1 hour, PHP 2,000-4,000) then taking a shared van to El Nido (5-6 hours, PHP 500-700). You can also reach El Nido by ferry from Coron (4-5 hours, PHP 1,600-2,200) if combining both Palawan destinations.
December to May is the dry season with calm seas and reliable tour departures. January and February offer the best combination of good weather and manageable crowds. March to May is hotter but still dry. June to October brings the southwest monsoon with rain and rougher seas that can cancel island hopping tours, though prices drop significantly.
Yes, this is essential. ATMs in El Nido are unreliable and frequently run out of cash. Bring enough Philippine pesos from Manila or Puerto Princesa to cover your entire stay including accommodation, tours, food, and transport. Some hotels and restaurants accept credit cards, but tours, tricycles, and most small businesses are cash-only.
Three to four days is ideal. This gives you time for two island hopping tours (Tour A and C are the top picks), a day at Nacpan Beach or other activities like diving or kayaking, and time to enjoy the town's restaurants and sunset bars. Two days is the minimum to do one tour and have a beach day. Five or more days allows for all four tours and a more relaxed pace.
Yes, the snorkeling is excellent, especially on Tours A and C. The lagoons have clear water with good visibility, and spots like Shimizu Island on Tour A offer healthy coral with reef fish and occasional turtles. Snorkeling gear is included in all island hopping tours. For independent snorkeling, the reefs near Las Cabanas Beach are accessible from shore.
