Bamboo Train Battambang: Riding Cambodia's Most Ingenious Railway

Somewhere in the Cambodian countryside outside Battambang, a bamboo platform sits on two sets of metal wheels salvaged from old military tanks. A small engine is attached by belt drive to the rear axle, a driver climbs aboard, and suddenly this improbable contraption is hurtling along colonial-era railway tracks at 40 km/h through rice paddies and rural villages. This is the norry - Cambodia's bamboo train - and it remains one of the most wonderfully absurd transport experiences in all of Southeast Asia.

The bamboo train was born out of necessity. After the Khmer Rouge devastated Cambodia's infrastructure, rural communities needed a way to move people, rice, and livestock along the abandoned French-built railway lines. The solution was brilliantly simple: a flat bamboo platform, tank wheels, and eventually a small motor. When two norries met on the single track, the lighter one was lifted off the rails, the heavier one passed, and then both continued on their way. No timetable, no station master, no bureaucracy - just pure Cambodian improvisation.

Today the bamboo train has evolved from practical transport into a tourist attraction, but it retains a charm that manufactured experiences cannot replicate. The ride itself is short but exhilarating, the countryside views are beautiful, and the whole concept is so perfectly Cambodian that missing it during a visit to Battambang would be a genuine shame.

History of the Bamboo Train

Cambodia's railway system was built during the French colonial period, connecting Phnom Penh to Battambang and eventually to the Thai border at Poipet. During the Khmer Rouge regime and the decades of instability that followed, the railway fell into disrepair. Trains stopped running, but the tracks remained.

Rural Cambodians, displaying the resourcefulness that has defined their survival through decades of hardship, began building makeshift rail vehicles. The earliest versions were propelled by hand using punt poles, pushed along the tracks like gondolas on iron rails. Later, small motorcycle and tractor engines were attached, transforming these bamboo platforms into surprisingly fast vehicles. The name "norry" comes from the French word for lorry, a linguistic remnant of the colonial era that built the tracks in the first place.

Each norry takes about four days to construct. The steel frame supports a platform of bamboo slats, wide enough for four passengers plus the driver. The engineering is crude but effective, and the vehicles can reach speeds that feel considerably faster than they are when you are sitting on an open platform just centimeters above the tracks.

For decades, the bamboo train was genuine public transport. Farmers used it to carry rice to market, families rode it between villages, and livestock shared the platform with paying passengers. The famous "right of way" system - where the lighter train dismantles to let the heavier one pass - was not a tourist gimmick but a practical solution to single-track traffic management.

The Original vs. the New Bamboo Train

Understanding the current bamboo train situation requires knowing that there are now essentially two versions of the experience.

The Original Bamboo Train

The original norry operated on the main railway line near Battambang city. This was the authentic experience that put the bamboo train on the backpacker map - a rough, rattling ride through the countryside on actual working railway tracks. When the Cambodian government resumed regular rail service between Poipet and Phnom Penh, the original bamboo train was officially shut down. However, a version of it continues to operate on a section of track near the city, maintaining some of the original spirit.

The New Bamboo Train at Phnom Banan

A new bamboo train attraction opened near the base of Phnom Banan, about 20 km south of Battambang city. This version runs on a purpose-built circular track stretching about 4 km from the Banan temple area to Chhoeuteal commune. The carriages are linked together rather than operating independently, and the experience is more controlled and predictable than the original. The surrounding scenery includes the Angkorian temple on Phnom Banan hill, ancient carvings, and fruit orchards.

Opinions are divided on the new version. Some travelers appreciate the improved safety and the scenic Banan temple setting. Others feel it has lost the raw, unscripted magic that made the original famous. The truth is somewhere in between - it is still a bamboo train in the Cambodian countryside, but the element of genuine improvisation has been replaced by a more organized tourist experience.

What the Ride Is Like

The bamboo train ride lasts approximately 30 minutes. You board the bamboo platform, sit cross-legged or on a cushion if one is provided, and hold on as the driver starts the engine. The train picks up speed quickly, and the sensation of rushing along at track level through open countryside is genuinely thrilling.

The landscape scrolling past is quintessential rural Cambodia - emerald rice paddies stretching to the horizon, sugar palm trees silhouetted against the sky, water buffalo grazing near the tracks, and children waving from village paths. The train rattles and shakes, the engine buzzes behind you, and the wind keeps the tropical heat manageable.

On the original route, the highlight was the meeting of two trains. When an oncoming norry appeared, both drivers would slow down, assess which train carried less weight, and the lighter one would be quickly dismantled - the bamboo platform lifted off, the wheels separated - so the heavier train could pass. The whole process took about a minute, and then the dismantled train was reassembled and continued on its way. This uniquely Cambodian system of traffic management never failed to delight visitors.

There is typically a stop midway through the ride at a small rest area where vendors sell drinks, snacks, and souvenirs. This is a low-pressure affair, and nobody forces you to buy anything.

How to Get There

Getting to Battambang

Battambang is Cambodia's second-largest city and well connected to the main tourist circuit.

The boat from Siem Reap via Tonle Sap Lake is one of the most scenic journeys in Cambodia, passing through floating villages and flooded forests. It runs during the wet season when water levels are high enough.

Getting to the Bamboo Train

From Battambang city center, the bamboo train locations are easily reached by tuk-tuk. Most drivers know the way and will wait for you during your ride. A return tuk-tuk trip costs around $5 to $8 depending on which location you visit. The Phnom Banan site is further out at about 20 km, so expect to pay more for transport there. Many guesthouses and hotels in Battambang can arrange the trip, often combining it with other nearby attractions like Phnom Sampeau and the bat cave.

Prices and Practicalities

The bamboo train ride costs $5 (or 20,000 riel) per person. At the Phnom Banan location, Cambodian nationals pay 10,000 riel (about $2.50) and foreigners pay 20,000 riel ($5). There are no fixed schedules - you simply arrive, buy a ticket, and board when a train is ready. Trains run throughout the day, roughly from early morning until late afternoon.

The experience does not require advance booking. Simply show up, and a driver will take you when enough passengers have gathered or when you are ready to go. During busy periods you might wait a few minutes; during quiet times you might have a train to yourself.

• Duration: About 30 minutes for the round trip
• Capacity: Each bamboo platform holds around four passengers plus the driver
• Operating hours: Approximately 7:00 AM to 5:00 PM daily
• Tipping: Not mandatory, but drivers rely on tourism income and a small tip is appreciated

Combining with Other Battambang Attractions

The bamboo train works best as part of a half-day or full-day tour of the Battambang countryside. The area is rich with attractions that pair naturally with the norry experience.

• Phnom Banan: An 11th-century Angkorian temple perched on a hilltop, reached by climbing 358 stone steps. If you visit the new bamboo train location, this is right next door.
• Phnom Sampeau: A hilltop pagoda complex with panoramic views, the Killing Caves (a sobering Khmer Rouge memorial), and the famous bat cave where millions of bats emerge at sunset in a spectacular stream.
• Battambang's colonial architecture: The city itself has charming French colonial buildings, a riverside promenade, and some of the best food in Cambodia.
• Countryside cycling: Many guesthouses rent bicycles for exploring the surrounding villages, rice paddies, and fruit orchards at your own pace.

A typical tuk-tuk tour combining the bamboo train, Phnom Sampeau, and Phnom Banan runs about $15 to $20 for a half day. For more travel ideas in Cambodia and across Southeast Asia, GoAsia.cc covers dozens of destinations worth exploring.

Tips for Riding the Bamboo Train

• Go early or late. The midday heat on an open bamboo platform can be intense. Morning rides are cooler and the light is better for photos. Late afternoon rides catch the golden hour over the rice paddies.
• Wear sunscreen and a hat. There is zero shade on the bamboo platform. A sunburn happens fast when you are fully exposed and distracted by the scenery.
• Secure loose items. The ride is bumpier than expected, and the wind can grab hats, scarves, and anything not firmly held. Keep your phone and camera secured with a strap.
• Bring small bills. Payment is in cash, and having exact change in dollars or riel makes things smoother. Vendors at the midway stop also appreciate small denominations.
• Manage expectations. The bamboo train is not a theme park ride. It is a short, simple experience rooted in Cambodian history and rural life. The joy is in the concept, the scenery, and the story behind it, not in adrenaline or duration.
• Visit Battambang itself. Many travelers treat Battambang as just a stop for the bamboo train, but the city deserves at least two nights. The food scene, the colonial architecture, and the surrounding countryside are genuinely rewarding.
• Check current status before visiting. The bamboo train's future remains uncertain as Cambodia develops its national railway. Verify that it is still operating before making it a key part of your itinerary.